Woke to rain and the river rising – but not dangerously. Another daughter, Lisa, helped serve breakfast – dressed in trousers with braces and a brimmed hat – rather eccentric, but very friendly and charming. Also met Julie, our hostess – unfortunately her husband died of an unexpected heart attack last year.
Obviously a popular place as breakfast room is full, including a couple we’d spoken to the previous day in town – without realising we were all staying at the same place.
Even before we left England and a friend, Mark, had told us of their favourite experiences in SA, I’d said we needed to ‘drop down’ into Hermanus (which Mark and Mary had really enjoyed) on our way from Swellendam to Franschoek. John thought it would be a ‘huge detour’ and was less keen. But spoke to Lisa and she said we must go – it was only an hour away and we might miss the long roadworks on the N2 – then she realised she might have caused a marital split by taking sides with the ‘wrong’ party – hurrah for sisterhood I say! She then handed us a ‘Have safe journey’ goodie bag of apple, plum and 2 moist chocolate brownies. Very thoughtful.
Had more thoughts about the Springbok cushion and decided it would be lovely souvenir and go very well with my sofas, so back to the shop… Also have to have a certificate to prove it’s not an endangered species – the owner had explained yesterday that they have to cull the Springbok, so they are not killed just for the skin and meat.
Tom Tom showed 1¾ hours to Hermanus, but the decision was made, so tough… and it was definitely worth the detour. A huge bay, more crashing waves, lovely views and eating places – it’ll be on the itinerary for next time. The weather had gradually cheered up as we travelled but there was a still a strong, but balmy wind.
We didn’t in fact miss the roadworks, but we were lucky to join the line of traffic on the one-way stretch. If we’d arrived a minute later, we’d have had a 10 minute wait as it was a long one-way stretch.
Then a beautiful drive through countryside that got more and more lush. At one point there were police cars coning off a short stretch of road on which was parked a load of vans and a vehicle with a tarpaulin, and some cameras. Can only think they were going to film an advert against the stunning backdrop.
Spotted at least 6 eagles, but didn’t manage to stop to snap one for the record. Past a huge reservoir (Theewaterschloofdam – a World Heritage site) and then into the Franschoek pass. Unfortunately got stuck behind a log lorry for most of the time, but that didn’t deter 6 German black 4×4 vehicle, that were obviously on some kind of mission/rally overtaking us and the log lorry on bends that we thought they couldn’t possibly have been sure of no oncoming traffic.
To distract myself from the frustration of the log lorry…
I haven’t mentioned townships.
On the edge of most of the bigger towns and sometimes in the middle of nowhere it seems, there are townships. Some of them are literally built out of anything people can lay their hands on – corrugated iron, wooden fencing slats – all cobbled together to give some shelter. It’s a sight that is depressing and the government runs projects to build new townships – simple concrete dwellings to rehouse the people in these settlements. But as soon as one project is finished, it’s not big enough to house the inhabitants of the ‘old’ townships, so it’s an uphill task. Interestingly some of these new buildings are then enhanced with corrugated ‘extensions’ resembling those dwellings in the old townships. The inhabitants are often transported in the back of open back trucks to their work in the town, or, more often in the country, you see them (and the school children) walking long distances between the town and their dwelling.
Arrived at Auberge Clermont B & B – working vineyard, plum and olive farm. Greeted by Stephan, the son, a charming guy, whose first priority is to get us booked in for our meals! A man after John’s heart. Apparently being the gastronomic centre of S. Africa (being a French settlement), tables are at a premium. Reubens was top of the list (his and ours) and we’d already phoned, to be told they were booked up to 19th Feb! However Auberge Clermont are allocated one table each night for their residents. Tonight’s allocation was taken and it appears that a ‘phantom’ guest has used tomorrow’s allocation – so Stephan is looking into it.
Walked round the vineyard and met Chris, the host – a former TV cameraman who was involved in filming Margaret Davies(?) a social worker in Nottingham who exposed the scandal about children being shipped to Australia and being told their parents were dead. His four dogs – a Yorkie, a German shepherd and two mongrels were duly introduced to us. Then I met Sue, his wife, a former de Villiers (meaning her family was from Villiersdorp nearby) who mentioned her daughter lives in Putney (like Ben and Susie) and is coming home next week to help make arrangements for her wedding in May to a South African she’s met in London.
Bit of a relax to catch the last of today’s sun and chatted to Iain and Margaret, a couple from Glasgow on their first trip to S.Africa. A very cheerful, friendly pair with a cheeky sense of humour which is very endearing. As with most folks we meet, we swap experiences of the trip.
Then we head for Grand Provence, a restaurant at one of the many local vineyards, for dinner. In a converted barn, with comfortable leather high back armchairs, in a gracious setting. Charming staff. The menu suggests you can have 3, 4 or 5 courses – choosing from the menu of about 20 dishes – in any order. What a good idea! So you could have 3 starters, or your pudding first or whatever… Fairly conventionally we had tempura prawns in a veloute sauce/smoked salmon, Smoked Duck/Blasebok, and Cape Salmon. John’s duck was a bit chewy so they didn’t charge him for that course and gave us a complimentary pud (chocolate tart) as well!
Got back to B & B to find an e.e.cummings love poem sealed with a leaf, on our bed. Is it Valentine’s Day already? No – just a poem to set the scene for a peaceful night’s sleep