Woke up to a misty but warm morning, so we strolled down to the beach before breakfast, where there were quite a few others doing the same. A lovely start to the day.
Met Cameron with J D – an 8 week old Staffordshire bull terrier – a bundle of muscle and very excited to see us. We later met Jayne, his wife, with Emma, the matriarch Staffs bull terrier who was less enthusiastic about the lively bundle that had interrupted her quiet life.
While talking to Cameron it turned out he had played varsity cricket for ‘Wits’ University (Witwatersrand near Jo’burg) during 3 years against Clive Gie (a local gynaecologist who lives in Upton) and who was at Cape Town Uni! Cameron had also stepped in as 12th man for England during the Rebel tour to S. Africa. His nickname was ‘Bokki’ – a) because people couldn’t remember his surname in full and b) cause he was ‘fast on his feet in those days’. Jayne is English – from Scotland, then Oxford – her parents live in Devon. They’ve got the B & B up for sale as they want to downsize and free up some time to travel.
We didn’t put in an offer…
Had an interesting chat with Christine who asked about us and our family. Turns out she has 4 children – a girl of 21 who’s completing her studies at Cape Town and is hoping to be a teacher – she’s obviously very proud that her daughter is working hard to make a good life for herself. She has a son who lives with his father’s family in Oudtshoorn and is planning to follow his father and go into the army. She’s supportive of his decision and is again proud that he’s got ambition. Her two ‘babies’ of 11 and 13 are in Outshoorn with her mother and doing well. But it is sad that she obviously doesn’t see them very often – a hard decision to ensure your children’s future.
The houses in Brenton are mainly built on stilts – because it’s on a hillside and each house wants an elevated view of the sea – it makes for quite a quaint sight and some quaint (or naff!) names – the house next door but one is called ‘Daddy Long Legs’!
Down to Kynsna quay just in time to catch the 11am boat trip to the ‘heads’ – the two headlands which form the channel to the ‘lagoon/estuary’. This stretch of water, through which between 1000 and 2000 litres of water passes every second, is one of the most dangerous in the world and no ship can be insured to pass through it! The only ship which does so is the S.African Navy once a year when they come for Knysna’s Oyster Festival in July, when about 2m locally grown oysters (of Chile origin) are consumed!
Knysna has a unique seahorse in its waters – which is fondly called the Chameleon seahorse because (depending on which guide I should believe, or perhaps both?) a) it can roll it eyes independently like a chameleon or b) it can change colour like a chameleon. The seahorses mate for life and perform a 3 day courtship during which they entwine tails. Then when the male indicates he’s ready (he probably wouldn’t if he knew what was in store for him!) the female lays eggs in his pouch. After 21 days they hatch and the process starts again so the male is pretty well pregnant for the rest of his life! The locals call it ‘Nature’s revenge’!
We saw a man in a fishing boat catch an electric blue eel, – we heaved to a while to see what would happen – he would have to throw it back, but I couldn’t see how he was going to get the hook out without getting electrocuted!? There are about 100 species of fish in the ‘lagoon’ and even dolphins, sharks and whales have been spotted.
There is the Featherbed Nature Reserve on one of the headlands encircling the lagoon, but just before that there is the most enormous private house which a couple have built. Its land runs down to the beach, but because the shoreline can’t be owned privately, anyone can land at the beach (by boat because there are no public roads accessing the beach) for swimming, picnic etc. so despite the huge house, they don’t have a deal of privacy.
Anyone wishing to build must buy a plot no smaller than 10 hectares and can only build one property on that plot. If only, in England…..
We reached the ‘heads’ and heaved to again to admire the phenomenal waves and swell which was enormous – and this was a calm, windless day. Only twin engined boats are allowed to navigate the channel and the National Sea Rescue station is very close by – there have been numerous shipwrecks here.
Wandered round Knysna – very quiet being a Sunday and rather ‘tacky’, so headed back to the waterfront where it was all happening. A delicious sushi meal at 34o South restaurant and some welcome beers.
Took a detour on the way to the Phantom Forest Lodge which was billed in Rough Guide as having the most splendid views in South Africa – particularly of Knysna’s lagoon and also serving unusual local food. Up and up the dirt track, barely a view in sight! Then we hit the N2 again. Where was this lodge!! It was indeed a ‘phantom’. When we asked at the restaurant later, the lodge has been bought and is now privately owned, so will pen a note to Rough Guide.
Ate at Pemburys – an interesting fusion of county and haute cuisine. The menus were handwritten on chalk boards about 2ft by 4ft and brought to the table complete with the easel! Crab tortilli/butternut squash ravioli, slow roasted lamb shank/lambs tongues and again crème brulee ‘test’ – good crispy topping, but slightly runny crème. I had bread and butter pudding and real vanilla ice cream – blow the diet!
Had noticed outside on the road indicating its entrance yet another chalk board on which they wrote a ‘saying’ of the day. Today it was ‘Love is a sport in which the hunter contrives to become the quarry’. Quite succinct – how true?
Which reminds me of the petrol receipt from the BP garage at Uitenhage – the message at the bottom was ‘Thank you for your custom – Jesus loves you’! Can you imagine the BP garage in Southwell adding that?